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VELATianyar
Outrigger fishing boats drawn up on the dark pebble shore at Tianyar, small waves in the foreground
The salt of Tianyar · The land

Seawater, dark sand, and a sun that does the work.

Salt has been made by hand on this coast for decades. Spend some time at the salt beds with someone who still does the work.

A visit to the salt beds along the coast, with a local salt maker. For two or more.

Ask us, and we tell you what the salt maker can do that week.

The pebble shore at Tianyar from the air at dusk, jukungs pulled up along the waterline and the hills behind
I · The coast

This is the coast the salt comes from.

Our own shore is pebbles. A little way along, the beach turns to dark sand, and that is where the salt has always been made.

Sunlight glittering on the sea at Tianyar, wicker chairs on the deck and the dark edge of the pool in the foreground
II · Seawater and sun

Carried up from the sea, poured over the sand, left to the sun.

Seawater is carried up the beach and spread over beds of sand. The sun takes the water and leaves the salt behind.

The sun on the horizon over a calm sea at dusk, small waves and a dark shore at the bottom of the frame
III · The work

Then the brine goes into the troughs, and you wait.

The brine goes into hollowed trunks and shallow troughs and sits in the sun until only the crystals are left. You do the carrying and the raking with the salt maker.

A grilled fish with green beans, herbs and a wedge of lemon on a white plate at a wooden table at Saga
IV · At the table

You taste it at Saga that evening.

Take a little back and put it on the fish at Saga that evening: the boat, the fire and the sun on one plate.

The pebble shore at Tianyar from the air at dusk, jukungs pulled up along the waterline and the hills behind
The coast

This is the coast the salt comes from.

Our own shore is pebbles. Walk or drive a little way along it and the beach turns to fine dark sand, and that is where the salt has always been made: strong sun, dry air for most of the year, and sand that holds the heat. Here in Tianyar it has been done this way for decades.

Sunlight glittering on the sea at Tianyar, wicker chairs on the deck and the dark edge of the pool in the foreground
Seawater and sun

Carried up from the sea, poured over the sand, left to the sun.

The method has not needed improving. Seawater is carried up the beach and spread over beds of sand. The sun takes the water and leaves the salt in the sand. The salt-rich sand is raked up and rinsed through with more seawater, which comes out the other side as a strong brine.

The sun on the horizon over a calm sea at dusk, small waves and a dark shore at the bottom of the frame
The work

Then the brine goes into the troughs, and you wait.

The brine is poured into hollowed trunks and shallow troughs and left in the sun until the last of the water lifts off and the crystals are left in the base. Two or three days, when the weather holds; a few kilos on a good day. You do the carrying, the pouring and the raking with the salt maker, and you see what the work asks.

A grilled fish with green beans, herbs and a wedge of lemon on a white plate at a wooden table at Saga
At the table

You taste it at Saga that evening.

Ask the salt maker if you may take a little back. It is coarse and damp and tastes of this particular stretch of water. Put it on the fish at Saga that evening and you have the whole coast on one plate: the boat that caught it, the fire that grilled it, and the sun that made the salt.

The shore at Tianyar from the air at dusk, the fishing boats drawn up along the pebbles and the palms behind
V · Why it matters

It is slow work for a small return, and it is still done by hand. Time spent with a salt maker is time the craft can use.

Learn the work, ask if you may buy a little, and tell someone.

How the visit works

The plain facts.

Everything below is what we actually do, nothing more.

With whom
A local salt maker, who guides you through the work
Included
The activity, the materials and the guidance
Group
For a minimum of two guests
Where and when
Along the coast. The place, the hour and how long you stay are agreed with you when you ask
The salt
Ask the salt maker if you may buy some to take home
If the weather turns
The work needs sun. Ask us on the day, and we help you find something else

Subject to availability and to the weather. The sun makes the salt.

Next

Catch & Cook

Out past the reef at first light, and back with whatever the sea gave you, for Saga to cook that evening.

IDR 2.359.500 · per boat · seats up to 4

Sleep on the coast the salt comes from.

Eleven canvas lodges behind Saga, a few steps from the pebble shore. Ask first; no payment today.

A real person replies. We reply the same day (Bali time).