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Why the quiet north-east coast around Tianyar is one of the darkest, clearest places in Bali to watch the night sky.
North Bali keeps its nights dark. Away from the resorts and traffic of the south, the coast around Tianyar carries almost no light pollution. On one side is open ocean, on the other the slope of Mount Agung. On a clear night the stars reach all the way down to the sea.
Why the north is darker
The south of the island is bright. Kuta, Seminyak and Canggu throw enough light into the sky to wash out all but the strongest stars. The north-east coast is different. The villages are small, the road falls quiet after dark, and little stands between you and the open sky. The result is a depth of darkness that is rare on Bali.
What you can see
On a moonless night the Milky Way rises clearly over the water. Planets, satellites and the odd shooting star are easy to pick out. Mount Agung sits black against the sky to the south-west, and its shape gives the night a fixed point. You need nothing more than your eyes and a little patience while they adjust.
When to look
The dry season, from about May to September, brings the clearest and steadiest skies. Watch the moon. A new moon leaves the sky at its darkest, while a full moon is bright enough to read by and drowns the fainter stars. The hours after dinner, once the last boats are in, are usually the calmest.
Where to stand
The beach itself is the simplest place. Black sand, the sound of the water, and a clear line to the horizon. Walk a short way from any light and let your eyes settle for ten or fifteen minutes. The longer you stay, the more the sky fills in.
VELA Tianyar is a small oceanfront tented camp on this stretch of coast, where the night sky is part of the stay.
